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Cotton Technology STARFISH Legacy Warehouse

Starfish Research Archive

Build Your Own Reference State Equations

1 . Systematic Experimental Work 2 . Case Studies 3 . Background Research Here you can read most of the IIC internal Research Reports that describe the manufacturing, processing and testing of the hundreds of fabrics that were analysed to develop the mathematical equations (the Reference State Equations) that form the heart of the STARFISH ENGINE - the routines that enable STARFISH to calculate the dimensional properties and shrinkages of any cotton knitted fabric that lies within the range of the STARFISH DATABASE. It needs to be borne in mind that some of the experimental studies reported below are now more than 30 years old (e.g. CP78 stands for Central Project 1978). This means that some of the conditions of manufacturing and processing, as well as the the performance standards may not be totally relevant to today’s industry (in those days, shrinkage of cotton fabrics was often more than ten percent). Also, the mathematical analysis was rather simple in the early days, so that the interpretations of the data and the form of many of the equations that were derived has changed significantly over the years, as our knowledge and the database expanded - and better and cheaper computers and analytical software became available. For an explanation of the experimental derivation and the form of latest equations, see the Software page. Nevertheless, the structure and the principles of the research, the testing methods, and most of the Reference State properties of the samples are still valid. Our belief is that the Reference State data could be used to test the Reference State Equations and to develop more sophisticated versions of them. In addition, there is a lot of background information on, for example, the mechanism of shrinkage, testing methods, industrial quality control and specifications, etc. N.B. Many of the studies reported below were carried out in co-operation with commercial manufacturing enterprises. At the time the IIC agreed with these companies that no commercially sensitive information would be revealed. However, as a consequence of the general shift in manufacturing from Europe & USA to Asia, many if not all of these companies are either no longer in business or serving completely different markets and, in any case, the passage of time renders information which could once have been commercially sensitive, largely irrelevant today. Any company that sees its name mentioned in a Research Report and would like to have its name redacted can contact us to request such action. A few of the documents have been re-presented (smartened up and maybe slightly edited) by scanning the originals and converting to Word documents and then to PDF. However, this is a very time-consuming procedure, so the majority have been left as they were and simply scanned into PDF. The Research Records are subdivided into three types of studies: 1 . Reports on practical systematic experimental work , designed to gather data that could be used to link the manufacturing conditions to the dimensional properties of cotton circular knitted fabrics. 2 . Case studies in which multiple samples were taken of a single product in a single factory so as to be able to determine : a . the normal range of variation in commercial products; b . whether the predictions of the current STARFISH software were confirmed in practice. 3 . Background studies looking at, for example: a . effect of manufacturing or testing conditions on measured results; b . mathematical analysis of the data gathered from studies of types 1 & 2, above; c . testing methods; d . literature surveys. Back to Top

Systematic Experimental Work

1 . RR No. 64: Effect of Yarn Count & Stitch Length on Properties of 24g Single Jersey 2 . RR No. 83: Project CP78 - Knitting of Interlock & 1x1 Rib Fabrics 3 . RR No. 85: Effect of Yarn Count & Stitch Length on Properties of 18g Single Jersey 4 . RR No. 88: Effect of Yarn Count & Stitch Length on Properties of 28g Single Jersey 5 . RR No 94: Project CP78 - Wet Processing of Interlock & Rib Fabrics 6 . RR No. 100: Effect of Yarn Count & Stitch Length on Properties of Single Jersey 7 . RR No. 114: Fabric Production for Projects K1 & K2 (Single Jersey) 8 . RR No. 122: Tubular Dyeing & Finishing for Projects K1 & K2 (Single Jersey) 9 . RR No. 126: Effect of Crosslinking on the Properties of Interlock & 1x1 Rib 1 0 . RR No. 128: Omez Mercelux Tubular Mercerisation of Interlock & Rib 1 1 . RR No. 130: Projects K1 & K2 - Properties of the Grey Fabrics 1 2 . RR No. 132: Open-width Dyeing & Finishing for Project K1 1 3 . RR No. 133: Kleinewefers Open-width Mercerisation for Project K2 1 4 . RR No. 139: Omez Tubular Mercerisation for Project K2 1 5 . RR No. 158: Project CP78 - Further Dyeing & Finishing Operations on Interlock & Rib 1 6 . RR No. 162: Interlock 28g - Production and Grey Fabric Properties 1 7 . RR No. 165: The NTI Project (Single Jersey) - Fabric Production 1 8 . RR No. 170: Finishing of Interlock & Rib Fabrics With Silicone Elastomer 1 9 . RR No. 174: Crosslinked Interlock & Rib (3.5%) - Processing & Data Analysis 2 0 . RR No. 175: Finishing of 28g Interlock 2 1 . RR No. 177: K2 Supplement 18g Single Jersey - Knitting 2 2 . RR No. 178: Crosslinked Interlock & Rib (5%) - Processing & Data Analysis 2 3 . RR No. 182: Processing of Single Jersey on the Dornier Tubular Mercerising Machine 2 4 . RR No. 204: 1x1 Rib 1985 - Knitting Production 2 5 . RR No. 206: Processing of Rib85 Fabrics 2 6 . RR No. 209: Single Jersey 1986 - Supplementary Knitting 2 7 . RR No. 219: Single Jersey 86 - Winch Dyeing & Bleaching 2 8 . RR No. 243: Single Jersey Pad-batch Dyeing 2 9 . RR No. 251: Single Jersey Database Expansion - USA Part 1 3 0 . RR No. 252: Single Jersey Database Expansion - USA Part 2 3 1 . RR No. 253: Single Jersey Database Expansion - USA Part 3 3 2 . RR No. 256: Double Lacoste Knitting 3 3 . RR No. 258: Schiesser 1x1 Rib fabrics 3 4 . RR No. 259: Single Lacoste Knitting 3 5 . RR No. 263: Single Lacoste - Processing Back to Top

Case Studies

1 . RR No. 171: Martins Case Study - 14g 1x1 Rib 2 . RR No. 176: An Analysis of Finished Samples from TEBE 3 . RR No. 179: Random Sampling at Meridian (Interlock & 1x1 Rib) 4 . RR No. 180: Variation in Standard Production Qualities 5 . RR No. 188: Inter-laboratory Trial - IIC vs TEFO 6 . RR No. 189: Variability of a BHS 1x1 Rib Fabric 7 . RR No. 191: Winch-dyed Interlock at Springfield Dyers 8 . RR No. 192: Variability in a Resin Finished Single Jersey Fabric 9 . RR No. 193: Inter-laboratory Trial - IIC vs Hanes 1 0 . RR No. 194: Inter-laboratory Trial - IIC vs Hanes (2) 1 1 . RR No. 197: BHS 1x1 Rib Case Study 1 2 . RR No. 207: Variability of Single Jersey 1 3 . RR No. 218: Variability of JBS 14g 1x1 Rib 1 4 . RR No. 221: Inter-laboratory Trial - IIC vs TEFO (2) 1 5 . RR No. 231: Variability of Interlock 1 6 . RR No. 236: JBS Rib Fabrics - Summary 1 7 . RR No. 246: Tubular Mercerising - Effect of Differences in Preparation & Dyeing Back to Top

Background Research

1 . RR No. 45: The Lubrication of Yarns for Weft Knitting 2 . RR No. 80: The Wet Relaxation of Cotton Interlock - Literature Survey 3 . RR No. 81: Effect of Loop Length and Take-down Tension on Ease of Processing 4 . RR No. 82: Pad-roll Mercerising of Cotton Single Jersey 5 . RR No. 84: Shrinkage Testing - Wash & Tumble Vs Soak & Tumble 6 . RR No. 86: Treatment of Cotton Knits on the Omez Tubular Mercerising Machine 7 . RR No. 95: The Wet Relaxation of Cotton Single Jersey - Literature Survey 8 . RR No. 97: Effect of Length- and Widthways Stretch During Drying & Curing of Interlock 9 . RR No. 100: Comparison of 18g, 24g, and 28g Single Jersey 1 0 . RR No. 102: Dimensional Stability of Interlock & 1x1 Rib fabrics 1 1 . RR No. 103: Testing for Twist Liveliness 1 2 . RR No. 106: Accuracy of the Welmstar Yarn Length Meter 1 3 . RR No. 110: Prediction of Relaxed Weight per Unit Area of Interlock & 1x1 Rib 1 4 . RR No. 119: Wearer Trials on Interlock & 1x1 Rib garments 1 5 . RR No. 129: Mathematical Analysis of the CP78 Data (Interlock & Rib) 1 6 . RR No. 136: Effect of Width Stretching & Overfeed During Stenter Drying on Interlock 1 7 . RR No. 137: Projects K1 & K2 - Single Jersey Fabrics Database 1 8 . RR No. 145: Dimensional Properties of the CP78 Interlock & Rib Fabrics 1 9 . RR No. 149: Spirality in Single Jersey Fabrics 2 0 . RR No. 150: Piece Mercerising of Single Jersey - Tubular vs Open-width 2 1 . RR No. 151: Effect of Piece Mercerising on Colour Yield & Economics 2 2 . RR No. 152: Dimensional Properties of K1 & K2 Single Jersey Fabrics 2 3 . RR No. 153: Singles vs Twofold Yarns in Single Jersey Fabrics 2 4 . RR No. 154: Tubular vs Open-width Finishing for Single Jersey Fabrics 2 5 . RR No. 157: Shrinkage Testing - Wash & Tumble vs Rinse & Tumble 2 6 . RR No. 159: Mathematical Analysis of the Crosslinked Interlock & Rib Data 2 7 . RR No. 161: Shrinkage Testing - Moisture Content During Tumble Drying 2 8 . RR No. 163: Accuracy of Current Test Methods 2 9 . RR No. 164: Mathematical Analysis of the Single Jersey Test Data 3 0 . RR No. 166: Analysis of the CP78 (Supplementary) Test Data - Interlock & Rib 3 1 . RR No. 173: Processing Knitted Fabrics on the Dornier Tubular Mercerising Machine 3 2 . RR No. 181: Evaluation of the Wet-Stretching Operation 3 3 . RR 183: BASIC Programmer’s Guide to Starfish 84 (STARFISH Version 2) 3 4 . RR No. 184: Comparison of Measured and Calculated Weights in the CP78 Fabrics 3 5 . RR No. 186: Analysis of 28-gauge Interlock Test Results 3 6 . RR No. 187: Garment Trials 3 7 . RR No. 188: Inter-laboratory Trial - IIC vs TEFO 3 8 . RR No. 190: Effect of Depth of Shade on Fabric Properties 3 9 . RR No. 195: Evaluation of the Marks & Spencer Measuring Frame 4 0 . RR No. 196 Garment Trials (2) 4 1 . RR No. 198: Single Jersey Made From Different Yarn Types 4 2 . RR No. 202: STARFISH Equations for Tubular Mercerised Single Jersey 4 3 . RR No. 203: Effect of Washing Conditions on Line-Dry Shrinkage 4 4 . RR No. 208: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 1 4 5 . RR No. 210: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 2 4 6 . RR No. 2112: Evaluation of the New Twist Liveliness Tester 4 7 . RR No. 215: Interlock - Effect of Yarn Twist on Reference Dimensions 4 8 . RR No. 216: Shrinkage - Effect of Fabric Softener Addition to Final Rinse 4 9 . RR No. 217: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 3 5 0 . RR No. 220: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 4 5 1 . RR No. 222: Twist Liveliness - Yarns Taken from Finished Fabrics 5 2 . RR No. 224: Garments - Resin Finish vs Pure Finish 5 3 . RR No 227: Starfish 84 Equations for 1x1 Rib 5 4 . RR No. 229: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 5 5 5 . RR No. 233: Shrinkage - Effect of Moisture Content, Part 6, Summary 5 6 . RR No. 242: Reference Relaxation Procedure - The Detergent 5 7 . RR No. 245: Tubular Mercerising - Effect of Speed and Concentration 5 8 . RR No. 248: Single Jersey Pad-Batch - Data Analysis 5 9 . RR No. 250: Use of Routine QC Data to Calibrate Starfish Equations 6 0 . RR No. 260: Shrinkage - Difference Between 1 and 5 Cycles W&TD 6 1 . RR No. 261: Abbey Double Lacoste - Data Analysis 6 2 . RR No. 264: Meridian Double Lacoste - Data Analysis 6 3 . RR No 266: Shrinkage - Summary of IIC Research Back to Top

Starfish Research Archive

1 . Systematic Experimental Work 2 . Case Studies 3 . Background Research Here you can read most of the IIC internal Research Reports that describe the manufacturing, processing and testing of the hundreds of fabrics that were analysed to develop the mathematical equations (the Reference State Equations) that form the heart of the STARFISH ENGINE - the routines that enable STARFISH to calculate the dimensional properties and shrinkages of any cotton knitted fabric that lies within the range of the STARFISH DATABASE. It needs to be borne in mind that some of the experimental studies reported below are now more than 30 years old (e.g. CP78 stands for Central Project 1978). This means that some of the conditions of manufacturing and processing, as well as the the performance standards may not be totally relevant to today’s industry (in those days, shrinkage of cotton fabrics was often more than ten percent). Also, the mathematical analysis was rather crude in the early days, so that the interpretations of the data and the form of many of the equations that were derived has changed significantly over the years, as our knowledge and the database expanded. For an explanation of the experimental derivation and the form of latest equations, see the Software page. Nevertheless, the structure and the principles of the research, the testing methods, and most of the Reference State properties of the samples are still valid. Our belief is that the Reference State data could be used to test the Reference State Equations and to develop more sophisticated versions of them. In addition, there is a lot of background information on, for example, the mechanism of shrinkage, testing methods, industrial quality control and specifications, etc. NB Many of the studies reported below were carried out in co- operation with commercial manufacturing enterprises. At the time the IIC agreed with these companies that no commercially sensitive information would be revealed, and especially not to their competitors. However, as a consequence of the general shift in manufacturing from Europe & USA to Asia, many if not all of these companies are either no longer in business or serving completely different markets and, in any case, the passage of time renders information which could once have been commercially sensitive, largely irrelevant today. Any company that sees its name mentioned in a Research Report and would like to have its name redacted can contact us to request such action. A few of the documents have been re-presented (smartened up and maybe slightly edited) by scanning the originals and converting to Word documents and then to PDF. However, this is a very time-consuming procedure, so the majority have been left as they were and simply scanned into PDF. The Research Records are subdivided into three types of studies: 1 . Reports on practical systematic experimental work, designed to gather data that could be used to link the manufacturing conditions to the dimensional properties of cotton circular knitted fabrics. 2 . Case studies in which multiple samples were taken of a single product in a single factory so as to be able to determine : a . the normal range of variation in commercial products; b . whether the predictions of the current STARFISH software were confirmed in practice. 3 . Background studies looking at, for example: a . effect of manufacturing or testing conditions on measured results; b . mathematical analysis of the data gathered from studies of types 1 & 2, above; c . testing methods; d . literature surveys. Back to Top